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If you like cranberry cocktails and bog-wild sips. If you're not into basic. If you live life boldly.
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CHEF EVAN MALLETT Black Trumpet - Portsmouth, NH
CHEF EVAN MALLETT Black Trumpet - Portsmouth, NH
Chef Evan Mallett’s path to professional cooking has been a sinuous one, wending its way from Washington, D.C. up the coast to Boston, and ultimately to the small seaport city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
In 2007, Evan and his wife Denise bought what would become Black Trumpet, taking over an historic restaurant location—an old ship’s chandlery that first opened in 1970 as the legendary Blue Strawberry, an early pioneer of New American cuisine.
"We try to change the menu at Black Trumpet every six weeks. It’s one of the guiding premises of the restaurant. It’s the only way I can effectively capture the ever-changing season of New England ingredients. It’s what we do,” says Evan. “After a long winter, we can’t wait for an ingredient like asparagus and when it does come up, we use it as much as we can because we love it and that is when it tastes best.
We just don’t serve asparagus year-round—it won’t taste as good if comes from too far away and there’s something else ripening in the ground right here, ready to go once it’s done. We look forward to that quality and it teaches me to focus on the flavor of ingredients at their peak. To do that, I have a relationship with the many farmers and growers in my area—and I’m glad about that, we are part of the same community. The more I learn about what is growing in my area and that my restaurant is a very necessary vehicle to the food cycle – it feels good I have that role and responsibility. It’s far greater than just showing up and making food.”
“I have to be nimble and patient when the weather changes suddenly and there is a drought, hail storm, or blight. I have to pivot and act quickly to use a surplus ingredient or rethink produce that is perfectly delicious, but maybe not perfectly round. It’s a challenge but it’s a wonderful victory and reward,” says Evan.
“I remember the first time I connected food and culture when I was a kid in Chatham, Mass. I went to a cranberry bog during harvest, as part of field trip and we got to see them growing in their natural habitat and I felt like, wow, just like cod or lobster, this was our regional ingredient. I grew up with cranberries. Before we knew words like free radicals and antioxidant, my mother was a staunch advocate of cranberry juice as THE cure, the panacea, to rid us from everything from UTIs to cancer to the common cold.”
Evan is a five-time James Beard semi-finalist for Best Chef, Northeast. He is actively involved and sits on the boards of Chef’s Collaborative, Slow Food Seacoast, and the Heirloom Harvest Project, an initiative that brings together farmers, chefs, and educators to identify and restore a food system native to the greater New England Seacoast region.
In 2016, Evan wrote an award-winning book published by Chelsea Green Publishing entitled Black Trumpet: A Chef’s Journey through Eight New England Seasons.
In 2017, Evan partnered with farmer Josh Jennings to create Abundance, a company that produces and packages soups and sauces from surplus and/or ugly farm produce.
He lives with his family in southern Maine.
Liam Luttrell Rowland
